school

I'm sure family & friends wonder where I live while in school. The International dorm is very convenient and the staff are super friendly. I had a really great classmates from around the world; I loved learning why they wanted to learn Putonghua. We shared Listening, Grammar, and Speaking lessons. This is one of the last days with Li laoshi (black shirt and neat frames, sitting), who was always encouraging and energetic.

This is the entrance of the international dorm. To the right is a large lot where students park their electric bikes/scooters. Many people use bikes because they are super cheap and a great way to explore. Since students usually only stay for 1 or 2 semesters there is an extensive "bicycle graveyard" on the sidewalk outside the school. My dreams of a colorful bike with wire basket exploded when I saw the variety of frame shaped and colors in this graveyard. Unfortunately a lot of the bikes have been sitting outside in the rain and humidity causing them to rust and flatten. Still, students can pull discarded bikes and get them fixed at the bike shop for a decent price. Many people opt to just buy a new/gently used bike because they are still very cheap.

These steps are opposite of the International building. Many students sit on the steps to relax/eat snacks like melon slices or drink naicha.

This is the second floor patio. I found it a great place to do homework and get sun (burned).

This is the liuxuesheng shitang (foreign student canteen). The food is actually pretty delicious and extremely cheap. The breakfasts are my favorite: fried noodles with spring onions, sesame seed balls filled with red bean paste, and bagged coffee flavored soy milk...mm haochiiiii

finding bargains

Whenever I visit a market, I am overwhelmed with the amount of items for sale: synthetic women's dresses, kitschy plastic toys, cheap souvenirs, bamboo mats, zodiac animals, paper cuts, men's plaid shorts, tubes of incense, skin-color nylon ankle socks, various sized Chinese knots for rear-view mirrors or wall decor, cutesy pajama sets, handmade mops from bamboo and old teeshirts.

Not only the range of items, but the quantity of each item and the number of stalls that sell those exact same items. It adds up to be crowded, confusing and colorful.

In mid June, I went to a market after class with Rosanne and Lina near the East Bus Station. On a mission to buy some worker shoes, once we arrived I was again overwhelmed. Vendor stalls are small and stretch deep like a maze made of fabric and plastic. I unknowingly split off from R & L and got lost. I couldn't find where they were and the more I looked, the more every stall looked the same. I ended up wandering and buying miscellaneous tokens: belated birthday presents for Rebecca, a teeshirt with mutant strawberries for Doug, animal masks for my little cousins Lucas and Andy (and myself!), and a pair of men's kung fu shoes, which are probably the only shoes that fit my feet in Hangzhou!

too bad there isn't halloween here

bad idea

one Saturday in June Dylan, Thomas, Ashley and I went to the Hangzhou Zoo to check out wildlife. Unfortunately we were unaware of the experience the next 3 hours would bring. In the cab there I felt childlike giddiness then I arrived and saw the monkeys. Some monkeys did not look too healthy: they were missing patches of fur and had some kind of lumpy infections. The hungry bears were being fed junk food by zoo visitors. The zebras and almost-wingless ostriches shared a pen. After the seal show we decided to leave and passed by the deer pen. We witnessed a doe laying on the ground in blood surrounded by zookeepers. They had to hold her down and then I noticed a fawn laying near her tail. She had given birth to a still-born and after helping the doe, the keepers brought out an old trash bag to toss the fawn in. It was horrific; Ashley cried and I think everyone just wanted to go home. It took forever to catch a cab and once we had one I fell asleep.

The best part of going to the zoo was seeing a real panda...but he was eating some kind of muffin.

games by the lake

These photos were taken some time in June after class. I went to Xihu alone to walk and happened upon a group of older men and women playing mahjong. I felt very nostalgic because growing up I remember watching my Mama (nainai) play with the glassy tiles.

I stood for a while trying to read the characters on the tiles but it proved to be difficult in understanding how they relate to the game..even what is the point of the game? perhaps one day I will learn how to play by Xihu! it is so neat because the stone seats and tables are specifically there for mahjong games. Each group even brought their own table clothes so the area looked spotted with squares of color and pattern

market

Thomas and I went to an indoor market next to Hefeng lu sometime in June. I believe it was the Bird and Flower Market but the only bird I saw was in a painting near the entrance. Each floor sold different items:

1. potted plants and seeds

2. cut flowers ready for bouquets

3. chinese herbs and alcohol

4. furry animals

5. aquatic animals

my favorite item they sold was in the furry animals section: it looked like a cousin of a squirrel and fox.

rewind: travel

spotted some sharp angles at the Toronto airport and on the plane ride to Tokyo

places

For my internship in Hong Kong, my editor asked if I would explore Hangzhou for a story. It forced me to go out after classes and review museums, art galleries, and shops. I learned so much through simple observation..and also the fact that (at the time) I was not very comfortable speaking Putonghua so most of my interaction with people involved staring/watching/smiling. I wanted to explore local eateries and hangouts while I was there, but seldom would I find people who spoke English. It was bought on a whim, but I am so glad I have it: my Lonely Planet phrasebook saved me multiple times. Whether ordering food, asking directions, or at a loss for a verb it was very handy. If traveling, purchase one! or even a guidebook. When I went to Paris with Lindsay we discovered more local, hole-in-the-wall nooks because of that guidebook. The series is so well researched and very tiny so you can be discrete when referencing!

Some of my favorite places in Hangzhou included:

• Charming Music Library: A cafe tucked just off a main road near West Lake, I went after class. The place only had one other customer. A fuwuyuan led me to a table with two purple couches for seating. On the table, a retro looking audio system is hooked up to a CD player hidden under the table. I ordered a watermelon juice for 35 RMB (5 USD). I browsed a bookshelf filled with CDs. CDs cost only 1 yuan to borrow but the selection was not as good as I had anticipated. Mostly classical music, they did have a small selection of jazz and soundtracks. I ended up listening to Ella Fitzgerald and doing homework. The atmosphere was really nice: it smelled like a lake house being a bit musty, dark, but still inviting and comfortable.

• Impressions Art Gallery: I visited this South Ya'an lu gallery on a really rainy day. Located below street level, the gallery had a selection of modern works mostly all by Hangzhou artists. With the China Academy of Art on Nanshan lu, I'm sure Hangzhou has a good artist population. My friend Lina's dad studied calligraphy there when he was young (but he no longer lives in Hangzhou). The gallery had an amazing bookshop. The topics ranged from animation to fashion design, computer art and thick artist profles of Dali, Warhol and even Modigliani! I bought a postcard book of Modigliani work and a small DIY book on current French artists.. but unfortunately it is all in Hanzi so I can't read much about each designer, but the pictures are enough inspiration!


• Loft 49: a furniture shop in Northern Hangzhou that I neither shopped nor bought furniture in. The venue played host to Clever Rebel shows, which were only 60 RMB for about 2 live bands and 2-3 DJ sets and open bar. The bands and crowds at Clever Rebel shows are fun and artistic and I love CC who organizes the affairs. He is a true pioneer in the Hangzhou music/art/style scene. The building itself is really interesting. the wide spaces inside are decorated only in red and white.



• My dorm room: sounds kind of lame, but I found the international living quarters very comfortable. Each room is small but has enough space for desk, armoire, bureau and twin bed. I had my own bathroom. Everything was cleaned (even my sheets replaced!) every 3-4 days. I felt spoiled. Only downside to the room: the bed matress was very, very hard. After a couple days I got used to it, but sometimes I would forget and plop down and hit my head on a not-so-soft surface. Ouch! For sure investing in foam padding in September.

street music

I have since seen this musician one more time since I took this photo. He sings in Putonghua, I'm not sure if they are covers of pop songs or original. He doesn't have a cap for money or anything, just plays to passerbys.

I love seeing people in Hangzhou do something unlikely or different from the crowd. Especially in an art form. It is rare for young people to standup or be individualistic, though I was told in a lecture, many do try to be unique within a certain norm.

Walking around May 21st

After an afternoon next to Xihu, I split apart from my classmates and wandered around a busy street. Mostly consisting of women's shops, it was my first real glace at Chinese youth fashion and it found it extremely intriguing. The focus on tiered tunics, sheer fabrics, shiny embellishments, oversized doll-like details. I popped into a couple open shops (no store front/door/windows) and at my overwhelmed state, I almost purchased an outfit for kicks.

The weather is so humid in Hangzhou, the women are smart in dressing in sheer layers. If you want to look at more styles, check out my style blog, The Curious Octopus to see local looks. The garments in these shops are usually purchased as prepackaged ensembles: tank top, sheer top, and vest are displayed on a hanger together with a picture of a model in the same outfit. and it is all only 30 RMB (around 4 USD??) Feichang pianyi!

The shoes in store are also fun to look at. I observe the shoes how I observed a childhood friend's mom's crystal animal collection. Drawn in by the sparkle, scared to touch, interested but recognizing it is/will never be something I would want. Even if I did want a pair, the largest available size is probably a 36 (I am a 39 or 40). The women in Hangzhou are especially tiny. The kitten heel slip-on sandal is pretty popular (about 1-1.5 inch heel)

Along the street, many merchants set items for sale including umbrellas, baby shoes, and these candy colored ribbon clips. As I was walking past, a woman began to lay out the clips on a towel and I stopped to sift through, soon I was literally being shoved over by other women trying to have a look at the precious accessories! I ended up snatching 5 for 20 RMB.

I gave Ma laoshi's daughter Jade 2 of the bows when they took our group out for dinner. Jade is 3 years old. oh well, I match a three-year-old.. I still think the bows are darling!

West Lake, May 21st

Anyday of the week no matter what the weather, West Lake seems to be a mob scene. Bustling with tourists, there are also tons of locals who gather to socialize, think, eat snacks, and sing! This day was my first time at West Lake and I took a long hour to walk alone and get a real experience.

Old and young, everyone crowds around a small speaker with one microphone as a live band plays Mandarin hits. Locals sing along softly and the star with the microphone always seems so happy to have an afternoon of attention. I can't help but take pictures of the babies in Hangzhou... they are all so adorable and always wearing the funkiest outfits. Actually this is one of the few times I saw a little one in a stroller. A lot of the local kids in the neighborhood near my campus walk hand-in-hand with their parents, get piggy back rides or carried. One of the differences is the lack of clothing. A lot of the little boys have crotchless trousers and some don't have diapers. If they need to go, they simply go on a plant or even in Xihu (which I witnessed on this same day..and I made a mental note not to swim in Xihu).

it is a sight though. the lake is so massive and to me seems so flat. as if i could step from the slate sidewalks onto the surface and walk straight across. We rented a boat for an hour or so with a sweet boatman. The experience was like that of my kayak experience from last summer. Super thrilling and fun in theory...slightly terrorizing once in the boat and in the middle of water. Perhaps I did not remember my fear of deep water. The wind was pretty strong near the middle of the lake and for a while I feared we would flip. The boatman was friendly, we all attempted to chat with him in Putonghua and he offered me some of his beijiu, very strong alcohol from a large plastic bottle. I declined but we ended up singing "Tian Mi Mi" to each other (thanks Xiong laoshi!!) which was so much fun. My voice is awful but it was so neat to sing to a boatman..on Xihu..in Putonghua.

Xihu (West Lake) is quite a tourist attraction so many kiosks surround the lake selling "silk" garments, parasals, jewelry, bright toys, and fans. Close up, the shops feel pretty garish, but now looking at pictures, I like the staurated, eye straining colors. I also saw the Crayola shades in bicycles on a side street later that day:

Color is another difference in Hangzhou. People are not confined to color. Now I know historically, yellow is the color of the Emperor, but in daily life people do not seem to care about colors. Most noticably in clothing. Men often wear purple tee-shirts. It is actually pretty popular color for men right now. Even in bicycles, I noticed some boys with purple, green, orange, and pink bicycles. At home if someone had a bright color garment or bike they might be talked about mockingly or negatively. It is again, fresh, to see a lack of caring in color. All colors seem acceptable, even white, which historically represents death since it was worn to funerals (and in some rural areas, still is).

These chair & table sets struck me. I really liked the chair shape and the worn look. To think of all the people who rested in them next to Xihu with friends and family. All the rain they sat in and sun that bleached and eventually turned coverings yellow.

belated

I understand this first post has been delayed about..two months! I have been writing now and then in word documents on my computer, but never posted them. I decided I will update in spurts on my happenings:

I studied Putonghua in Hangzhou for 6 weeks. While there, I lived in an International dormitory which has classrooms attached for a convenient roll-out-of bed for 8am class situation. Hangzhou has to be one of the most beautiful and interesting places I have ever been. Upon arriving to Hangzhou I was greeted by my uncle's friend Lu Xing Hua who only spoke words of English and Putonghua..(as I was warned) extremely fast. He picked me up from the train station and took me to the University and bought me white flowers intertwined on a leaf from a woman walking in the street. One obvious difference: driving in Hangzhou. I cannot speak for all mainland China cities because I have only been to Shanghai and Hangzhou...but the drivers are "ruthless". There seems to be no rules, but I find there is a system to the madness, as I have not yet witnessed any car accidents. Sneaking between parked cars, honking horns at cyclists, speeding toward pedestrians. If the road is too crowded, by all means, pop into the bike lane or sidewalk!

A handful of times I have been walking on the sidewalk or in the bike lane and cars have beeped at me to get out of their way! It doesn't bother me, I just get out of the way and walk on.

Life is a lot more laid back and spontaneous in Hangzhou. Perhaps it is because I am a student and have a certain schedule, but I find the city is never continuously energetic. The pace undulates and shoots out in spurts. I witness people working really hard or dead tired and sleeping. By sleeping I really do mean sleeping. I still think it is interesting people will sleep anywhere. At home, I have slept outside a number of times, mostly on a grassy area. In China not many people actually sit in the grass because they think it is dirty or taman bu keyi walk in it. I think the best place to sleep would be West Lake, on a sunny day:

I didn't take this picture to mock, but also to point out the closeness of friends in China (not only mainland, also Hong Kong). If girls are close friends, it is quite common for them to hold hands or arms while walking down the street. There isn't a huge emphasis on personal space. The dependence on others and care I have seen between friends is super endearing and it makes me sad we don't have this kind of strong knowing that others are there (and physically there) if you need them. Boys also have a physical closeness with their friends. I have seen boys walking down the street with their arm around a friend's shoulder. Usually 2-by-2, I have also seen them sharing umbrellas in the rainstorms which is so cute! I love the physical showing of friendships. It has nothing to do with being less manly, it is seriously common sense: "I don't want my friend to get wet so I will share my umbrella with him. How do we walk under an umbrella? Together!" It is such a simple visual difference, it is such a breath of fresh air.