places

For my internship in Hong Kong, my editor asked if I would explore Hangzhou for a story. It forced me to go out after classes and review museums, art galleries, and shops. I learned so much through simple observation..and also the fact that (at the time) I was not very comfortable speaking Putonghua so most of my interaction with people involved staring/watching/smiling. I wanted to explore local eateries and hangouts while I was there, but seldom would I find people who spoke English. It was bought on a whim, but I am so glad I have it: my Lonely Planet phrasebook saved me multiple times. Whether ordering food, asking directions, or at a loss for a verb it was very handy. If traveling, purchase one! or even a guidebook. When I went to Paris with Lindsay we discovered more local, hole-in-the-wall nooks because of that guidebook. The series is so well researched and very tiny so you can be discrete when referencing!

Some of my favorite places in Hangzhou included:

• Charming Music Library: A cafe tucked just off a main road near West Lake, I went after class. The place only had one other customer. A fuwuyuan led me to a table with two purple couches for seating. On the table, a retro looking audio system is hooked up to a CD player hidden under the table. I ordered a watermelon juice for 35 RMB (5 USD). I browsed a bookshelf filled with CDs. CDs cost only 1 yuan to borrow but the selection was not as good as I had anticipated. Mostly classical music, they did have a small selection of jazz and soundtracks. I ended up listening to Ella Fitzgerald and doing homework. The atmosphere was really nice: it smelled like a lake house being a bit musty, dark, but still inviting and comfortable.

• Impressions Art Gallery: I visited this South Ya'an lu gallery on a really rainy day. Located below street level, the gallery had a selection of modern works mostly all by Hangzhou artists. With the China Academy of Art on Nanshan lu, I'm sure Hangzhou has a good artist population. My friend Lina's dad studied calligraphy there when he was young (but he no longer lives in Hangzhou). The gallery had an amazing bookshop. The topics ranged from animation to fashion design, computer art and thick artist profles of Dali, Warhol and even Modigliani! I bought a postcard book of Modigliani work and a small DIY book on current French artists.. but unfortunately it is all in Hanzi so I can't read much about each designer, but the pictures are enough inspiration!


• Loft 49: a furniture shop in Northern Hangzhou that I neither shopped nor bought furniture in. The venue played host to Clever Rebel shows, which were only 60 RMB for about 2 live bands and 2-3 DJ sets and open bar. The bands and crowds at Clever Rebel shows are fun and artistic and I love CC who organizes the affairs. He is a true pioneer in the Hangzhou music/art/style scene. The building itself is really interesting. the wide spaces inside are decorated only in red and white.



• My dorm room: sounds kind of lame, but I found the international living quarters very comfortable. Each room is small but has enough space for desk, armoire, bureau and twin bed. I had my own bathroom. Everything was cleaned (even my sheets replaced!) every 3-4 days. I felt spoiled. Only downside to the room: the bed matress was very, very hard. After a couple days I got used to it, but sometimes I would forget and plop down and hit my head on a not-so-soft surface. Ouch! For sure investing in foam padding in September.